I have an 11 week old pup and our journey began with some of the same issues. But I have found this breed to be very smart and willing to train if you put in the time and have patience, it will come! I also have two kids so obviously the hand nipping was a big issue that had to be addressed right away. Puppies communicate a lot through body language and the tone in your voice, they want to be good so positive reinforcement when they do something good goes along way. When my pup misbehaves I use the tone in my voice to let him know I disapprove, I don't recommend yelling because this will make them fearful. I just lower my voice and make a tsk tsk sound and he seems to respond. I've taught my son to make a sad puppy noise (almost a whimper)if our puppy tries to nip him and that lets pup know his actions are hurting and making his friend sad. Sounds weird i know but it works. Listen to how your dog communicates and try to mimic your expectations in a way they will understand. After two weeks he has stopped biting but if he tries when he playing I will put my hands up out of reach and ignore his behavior until he calms down and will play nice. Also having a lot of good chew toys helps.When he chews anything we replace the item with one of his chew toys(this also works to distract from nipping) Good luck!
Jun 04, 2010
Biting by: Anonymous
When my pup was biting my hands - I would force my hand to the back of his mouth so he associated discomfort with the taste of human flesh - I also said ouch when he would bite me. Now even if he's playing with a toy and gets close to my hand and I say ouch - he will stop and lick my hand to make sure I'm okay - :)
May 23, 2010
house training by: Linda Galway/TurnerME
I think you're asking for some help, so here are a few things to consider. First, she should not have the run of the house. She travels only with you (or another adult in charge), if that's to the kitchen, the bathroom, the bedroom or the garage, etc. If you're in an area, keep her confined to that area with you. You may have to gate it, close the door or put her in a little cat crate. Keep an eye on her. If she starts to circle, pick her up, say: "Pee out, pee out, poop out, poop out" all the way to the door until you set her down. DO NOT WALK HER TO THE DOOR AT THIS POINT. She's not ready for that.
If she wakes up from a nap, out she goes; after eating, out she goes.Every time and right away. Try not to bring her back in until she does something. Keep saying whatever word you want to use for peeing and pooping all the while she's out. (Usually, it's pee first, then poop). While she is peeing, "Good pee, Shelby. Good pee. All done? In for a treat!" If she's also due to poop, do the same procedure until she poops, then "in for a treat!" She will then associate peeing and pooping outside with a treat afterwards. Sometimes there is no poop, so in that case, I say: "No poop? Ok, no poop. In, In."
Try this and let us know how you do. At this point, her peeing and pooping, I'm sorry to say, is probably more that you're not picking up on her body language quickly enough, but I know you can do this and get her on the right track. Whatever, do not rub her nose in anything. If you catch her in the act, "Shame shame Shelby! Pee out!" Pick her up and just walk her outside and do the procedure above. She may not have anything left, but she will start to get the idea that you're not pleased with indoor peeing, etc. and that you're much happier when the event is outdoors. I have not paper trained my Bostons because they just want to rip up the paper and play with it. Remember that your tone of voice -- happy and excited or low and somber-- will give her a big clue as to what she needs to do to get the happy voice out of you.